Silangit Feed 1: June 2009

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Re: [AMD] Any problems with the Revell/Matchbox Twin Otter?

It's years since I built the original Matchbox version of the Twin Otter, but the only problem I remember was that the strut between the wing and the main landing gear mounting was a little short so required a small about of packing and filling to get the correct wing-to-fuselage angle. Other than that I don't remember anything major.

From what I remember, most Matchbox kits went together quite well.

Richard

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Re: [AMD] F-27 Troopship door

Kenn,

Thanks for the clarification.

Richard

________________________________

Richard -

The door is like the Flugleidir photo. Funny you chose that image, since my friendship's Braathens decals were shot I bought a set of up-scaled Flugfelag decals for it from Pierre @ FDcal. My troopship suffered the same decal tragedy and has the Draw Army Black Knight decals. I have alot of those kinds of kits around...

Kenn
GEG

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RE: [AMD] AA MD-80 tailcones

Thanks Jeff, really interesting stuff!

Keith
EGFW

>>>
>
> Greetings Keith,
>
> If you Google MD-80 tailcone, you'll find plenty of places that discuss the 2 different styles.

...

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[AMD] Vietnam Airlines blue

Beginning to build a Vietnam Airlines B-777, can anyone help me with the colour blue.

Martin Dieterle

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[Titanaircraft] A Flying Story

After a long build the day was coming close. It would soon be time for the
maiden flight of 919SC, my 2000 Avid Mark IV with Rotax 618,
affectionately known as "Bush Baby". Things were coming together fast now. I installed
the vinyl graphics down the side fo the fuse...she was looking hot! I
performed the fuel flow test, good to go! Engine break-in sweet. Another few
weeks of detail work and there would be nothing keeping me from getting her
into the air...with one exception, I had never flown a Taildragger.

I decided to get some stick time in a rented Citabria. My instructor was a
fellow I had known for quite some time and my transition training went
well...2.8 hours later Don told me I was good to go. I was feeling great, the
world was at my feet and the day was near when my creation and I would be
one. I scheduled the maiden flight for the following weekend. The pride and
excitement I felt was hard to describe. Another "first born" child perhaps?

The day finally came. Perfect. No wind. Yes! Awsome! I was at the airpark
early, before the sun came up. Sliding the hangar doors open... you can
almost smell it. The perfect day for a maiden flight. I rolled Bush Baby out
into the morning air, the sun just beginning to peek over the desert floor
casting long shadows everywhere. Niner-one-niner was ready to go. poised
there on the tarmak. There had never been a more beautiful airplane built by
anyone-ever.

Following the advice from an FAA DAR who I shared hangar space, I put 5
gallons of fuel in the right-hand tank. If I did have a major problem on this
first flight, minimal fuel would be better in the event of a mishap. His
advice sounded logical. I drained all but a quart or so out of the left
tank. After checking over everything-a hundred times...there was no putting it
off. I hopped in, closed the doors and fired her up. She sounded just as
good as she did on any of the multitude of previous taxi tests. Everything
looked good.

I taxied her out to the run-up area. Checks all looked good. I still use
"C-I-G-A-R-S, an old habit. Controls, Instruments, Gas, Attitude, Run-up,
Safety. It was time to go. I taxied out to centerline and without
hesitation, spooled up the big two stroke. The Avid leaped ahead. A little forward
stick and the tail came up. Airspeed was building rapidly. I let her fly
off. Everything felt good, she was climbing out nicely. 50, 100 feet...150.
I'm letting her come up slow, allowing airspeed to build quickly. A moment
or two more and I will ease the stick back and trade a little airspeed
for altitude. The runway is flashing by under me now. Coming up fast, I see
the row of trees, powerlines and the street which cross the runway . At the
very moment I begin to ease the stick back, I realized something was
very wrong. My RPM sagged and the engine was beginning to spudder. Did I feel
it first or hear it...I instantly lowered the nose. What
the heck is wrong? I've lost my engine? Suddenly, the world is in slow
motion. I see everything, I hear everything. crystal clear. I ease the
throttle back...don't let her die! I move the throttle in and out quickly to keep
her running. Now, check for traffic...looking, my head is on a
swivel...sweeping from side to side. How about Airspeed. Airspeed! OK. I'm OK. Can I
set her down? No, not enough room. Keep her running, keep her running! DON"T
TRY TO TURN BACK! My eyes flash over the instrument panel. I'M NOT GOING TO
DIE TODAY! Not enough room to land. My first landing in my own
taildragger! To the right I see the farmhouse. To the left the concrete culverts and
ditches. Keep her straight. The fastest way between two points is a straight
line. Can I clear the trees? I check my altitude...about a huindred feet
or so now. I play with the throttle trying to keep the engine running. I
bump it forward and she spools up a little...I get 4000 rpm, but only
for a second or two. I pull the throttle back and she stabilizes at 3000.
I ease the throttle in again and this time I see 4200, but once again, only
for a second or two before she starts sputtering. I throttle back again
and she stabilizes at 3000 RPM. I think I can clear the trees. Keep playing
with the throttle. In...then out. Back in and then out again. Try to get as
many RPM out of her as you can! The trees are right there and they flash
under me in an instant along wiith the powerlines. The part of the lines
that swoop down in the middle. That's where I crossed.

I'm on the other side of the street now. Over an open field. Sweet! I've
got it made now! And that dirt road that runs along the left side about a
quarter mile away. The road would be better to land on than the rutted up
field, so I stab a little rudder and before long I'm over the road. Hmmm. I'm
good to go now...I can set her down now any time. I'm getting better
managing this throttle, I'm seeing 5200 here and there.

To make a long story short, I made it all the way back to the runway in
this condition. Talk about a nail-biter! I made a close-in downwind in case
my engine quite alltogether and did an "OK" landing. I taxied off the runway
and braked to a stop. The engine quit by itself. I got out of the plane. I
couldn't swallow and my knees were shaking...but I made it back and I
didn't hurt my plane or myself. I found a piece of curled up cellophane tape
inside a 90 degree AN fitting...part of my fuel system. Apparently, the
debree partially clogged the fitting, allowing only a small amount of fuel to
pass thru.

I owe my life to the exceptional training I received from Bob Comperini.

Regards,

Steve Cooper

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [AMD] AA MD-80 tailcones

--- In airlinermodelling@yahoogroups.com, keith ryder <keith_ryder@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Joe. But weren't MD-80's still a McDonnell Douglas product when the tailcone design was changed?
>
> Incredible figures for reduced fuel burn from such a simple change! Small ideas are often the best....!!

Greetings Keith,

If you Google MD-80 tailcone, you'll find plenty of places that discuss the 2 different styles. As far as fuel burn reduction, the newer one is a big improvement, but the figure of 3-5% reduction in drag sounded quite optimistic to me and I believe that it's more on the order of 1-1.5% at most, but still very much worth it to replace them.

The new tailcone came out in 1986, so American already had well over 100 MD-80s with the old pointed tailcone. Apparently, they were not overly concerned with the drag/fuel burn until around 2002 when the price of fuel was becoming a bigger and bigger issue, and Boeing had taken over MD in 1997 which meant they would now be buying any parts for the MD-80s from Boeing. Since there were so many airplanes to retrofit, it made sense to make them in house as Joe said. Until Joe said it, I had not realised that American had finally retrofitted the newer style tailcones fleetwide because they did not do it for so long, but a look through airliners.net shows that they have now done so.

One thing that I have heard from many different sources is that since anything with an MD name on it was NIH by Boeing's thinking, they have not supported those products very well because they would like those products to go away and be forgotten so that they can sell more IH products and gain a larger customer base, set sales records, etc.

Regards,
Jeff Jarvis, SDF

NIH=Not Invented Here
IH=Invented Here

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[Titanaircraft] Re: Fly the airplane

rope brake ,is the turn back maneuver that practiced in getting a glider rateing. it would be a good idea for someone worry-ed about
have a engine problems ,and turning back to the runway,
To go the a glider field and go for about "three" glider rides,
and haveing one of the rides to be a simulated Rope Break.
the simulated rope break is usualy done a little bit over
TWO hundred feet.in a "long wing" std. training glider.
Besides the education ,going for a glider fligt is a whole
lot of fun. and also most of the people you meet at a glider
field are the nice's people you will neet in the aviation world.
...
..
.
IMHO= i may be wrong
flying=be safe,have fun
thanks/// rick....rick9mjn@@yahoo.

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Re: [AMD] Any problems with the Revell/Matchbox Twin Otter?

While not the Revell/Matchbox re-issue, here is what I found on various Matchbox Twin Otter incarnations.

http://www.internetmodeler.com/2003/september/first-looks/modelcraft_twotter.htm

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.modellversium.de/galerie/18-flugzeuge-zivil/1587-dhc-6-twin-otter-matchbox.html&ei=9CVKSq_RGov-M6DjpKsB&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=9&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3D1/72%2Bmatchbox%2Btwin%2Botter%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26start%3D30

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.modellversium.de/galerie/18-flugzeuge-zivil/1587-dhc-6-twin-otter-matchbox.html&ei=9CVKSq_RGov-M6DjpKsB&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=9&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3D1/72%2Bmatchbox%2Btwin%2Botter%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26start%3D30

Here is one with floats.....

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.modellversium.de/galerie/18-flugzeuge-zivil/1587-dhc-6-twin-otter-matchbox.html&ei=9CVKSq_RGov-M6DjpKsB&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=9&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3D1/72%2Bmatchbox%2Btwin%2Botter%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26start%3D30

Take care and God bless,
Randie Coulter

Fort Smith, AR
Agape Models

--- On Tue, 6/30/09, Carlos Carreira <cacarr1960@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Carlos Carreira <cacarr1960@gmail.com>
Subject: [AMD] Any problems with the Revell/Matchbox Twin Otter?
To: airlinermodelling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 2009, 7:18 AM

Hi All,

I've been looking in the past mail and I did not found any review of the the kit, apart from some problems in the nose. That's all? Just shake n' bake?

Thanks in advance,

Carlos

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[Titanaircraft] Re: Fuel Tank Problem

Kimberly:
Thanks for the other photo and explanation, it definitely looks better than the standard. By looking at the pic I now how this goes, does it have two O-rings on each side of the plastic tank? can't really see it.

This Titan fuel pick-up/strainer clunk you mentioned can be ordered from Titan directly I guess and ready to install onto your urethane hose.

The center fitting and the opposite to the 90-degree are standard fittings from Spruce?

Thank you,
Rob

--- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Panos" <kimberly@...> wrote:
>
> Rob,
>
> I don't have a photo of the individual pieces for the RANS tank fittings, but I ran down stairs and snapped a close-up photo of the installed fittings and I uploaded it to the 'Panos' folder. The fittings are exactly the right size for the holes you already have drilled for the factory Titan rubber inserts. They are threaded inside for 1/8"NPT, and on the outside for an AN aluminum nut with a hex down inside the 1/8" NPT to hold it with an allen wrench while you tighten the nut. You only need to be able to feed a piece of bailing wire through the hole where the fitting goes, and through the filler neck to slide the fitting inside so it runs down the wire and falls into place. If I recall, these fittings are only manufactured by RANS. They'll likely run about $12-16 per hole, but well worth it.
>
> The stock Titan fuel pick-up/strainer clunk is quite heavy. The screens are soldered onto a 1/4" NPT bushing reducer with 1/8" NPT to screw your hose fitting into.
>
> The 90-degree fitting is the filler vent that connects up by the filler neck. The center fitting is for fuel feed to the fuel pump, and the fitting opposite of the '90 is for the stock external vent out the bottom of the plane. That line gets looped up high in the rear before turning back down to exit the belly skin tube. That way, when you over-fill the tank a little, it isn't going to dump the entire volume that is in the filler neck out on the ground.
>
> --Kimberly
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jrceacampo
> To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 11:50 AM
> Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Fuel Tank Problem
>
>
>
>
>
> Kimberly;
>
> Pictures speaks a thousand words! thanks. I'm replacing all fittings to AN aviation kind, I will only keep the top plate that has the cut out already in the tank and is in good condition. Would you have some pics of the two Rans drain fittings and the release valve in the belly?
>
> Also, do you put a weight on that internal urethane hose and a mesh or just as is?
>
> I see you have the 90 degree fuel pick up and then two other barbed fittings, are these for venting purposes or the external (below the wing) connectors?
>
> Thank you,
> Rob.
>
> --- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Panos" <kimberly@> wrote:
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > Again, we've gone a little beyond what you usually see on most other aircraft. Please take a look at the last page of the 'Panos' photos folder. I just uploaded some photos of our latest tank sump/vent plate. As you can see, it has an internal plate inside the tank with counter-sunk riv-nuts. One of the riv-nuts is just to hold the plate in place while the gasket and plate are set on top and bolted down with the screws and teflon sealing washers. No other sealer is used, and it doesn't leak. However, I like to run a bead of silicone around the plate and the fuel level float plate just in case to keep vapors in check. Keep in mind, silicone will break down quickly if it is in constant contact with liquid gasoline.
> >
> > In case you were wondering about that large tube the re-connects at the filler neck, that is the fuel filler vent that keeps the fuel from spraying back out of the neck while fueling the plane, and it works very well. This of course is in addition to the 1/4" atmospheric vent, which you can see in the photo.
> >
> > We use the stock Titan fuel clunk inside the tank with the factory two-stage strainer soldered on.
> >
> > There is no sealer used on the Rans fittings to install them other than blue Loctite to keep the nut secure, but you do use teflon sealant for the 1/8" NPT fittings that screw into them. Be careful to not overtighten them as it will damage the O-rings if the fittings turn in the tank.
> >
> > We've found the toughest smelly fuel problem in a Tornado is the fitting that the drain sump that the valve screws into. Make sure you use a very good thread sealant on it as well as the aluminum belly skin since the threads in the valve really aren't pipe thread like the brass fitting it screws into. If that leaks, it leaks all the time, until the tank is empty.
> >
> > --Kimberly
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jrceacampo
> > To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, June 28, 2009 8:02 AM
> > Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Fuel Tank Problem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks Kimberly;
> > The Fuel I left seems to work, but still there are some areas that may require something stronger or found I way to scratch what seems to be glued at the bottom.
> > Also, Do you use a weight or a mesh at the end of your blue urethane hose inside the tank?
> > What do you use to seal back the fittings plus the aluminum base plate at the top of the tank?
> > Thank you!
> > Rob.

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[Titanaircraft] Re: Fly the airplane

This has been a good discussion.
For these steep, tight turns I really like my Angle of Attack instrument. I'm frequently surprised at how quickly the needle drops while the airspeed is still reading a reasonable number.
There are two left from the first batch.
Peter
http://www.pipcom.com/~cowcam/AOAr.htm

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[AMD] Any problems with the Revell/Matchbox Twin Otter?

Hi All,

I've been looking in the past mail and I did not found any review of the the kit, apart from some problems in the nose. That's all? Just shake n' bake?

Thanks in advance,

Carlos

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[AMD] New decals

Hi All.

Two new screen printed decals now available from TwoSix Decals:

STS4494 Sabena Boeing 737-229/C

STS4495 Sabena Boeing 707-329C

All the best
Ray Charles
www.twosixdecals.co.uk

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Monday, June 29, 2009

[AMD] Clint Groves

Clint is alive and well.He lives near Bakersfield.He lurks around these forums but seldom post.He is selling off his slide collection on the auction at airlinehobby.com.
Sparky

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Re: [Titanaircraft] Re: Fuel Tank Problem

Rob,

I don't have a photo of the individual pieces for the RANS tank fittings, but I ran down stairs and snapped a close-up photo of the installed fittings and I uploaded it to the 'Panos' folder. The fittings are exactly the right size for the holes you already have drilled for the factory Titan rubber inserts. They are threaded inside for 1/8"NPT, and on the outside for an AN aluminum nut with a hex down inside the 1/8" NPT to hold it with an allen wrench while you tighten the nut. You only need to be able to feed a piece of bailing wire through the hole where the fitting goes, and through the filler neck to slide the fitting inside so it runs down the wire and falls into place. If I recall, these fittings are only manufactured by RANS. They'll likely run about $12-16 per hole, but well worth it.

The stock Titan fuel pick-up/strainer clunk is quite heavy. The screens are soldered onto a 1/4" NPT bushing reducer with 1/8" NPT to screw your hose fitting into.

The 90-degree fitting is the filler vent that connects up by the filler neck. The center fitting is for fuel feed to the fuel pump, and the fitting opposite of the '90 is for the stock external vent out the bottom of the plane. That line gets looped up high in the rear before turning back down to exit the belly skin tube. That way, when you over-fill the tank a little, it isn't going to dump the entire volume that is in the filler neck out on the ground.

--Kimberly

----- Original Message -----
From: jrceacampo
To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 11:50 AM
Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Fuel Tank Problem

Kimberly;

Pictures speaks a thousand words! thanks. I'm replacing all fittings to AN aviation kind, I will only keep the top plate that has the cut out already in the tank and is in good condition. Would you have some pics of the two Rans drain fittings and the release valve in the belly?

Also, do you put a weight on that internal urethane hose and a mesh or just as is?

I see you have the 90 degree fuel pick up and then two other barbed fittings, are these for venting purposes or the external (below the wing) connectors?

Thank you,
Rob.

--- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Panos" <kimberly@...> wrote:
>
> Rob,
>
> Again, we've gone a little beyond what you usually see on most other aircraft. Please take a look at the last page of the 'Panos' photos folder. I just uploaded some photos of our latest tank sump/vent plate. As you can see, it has an internal plate inside the tank with counter-sunk riv-nuts. One of the riv-nuts is just to hold the plate in place while the gasket and plate are set on top and bolted down with the screws and teflon sealing washers. No other sealer is used, and it doesn't leak. However, I like to run a bead of silicone around the plate and the fuel level float plate just in case to keep vapors in check. Keep in mind, silicone will break down quickly if it is in constant contact with liquid gasoline.
>
> In case you were wondering about that large tube the re-connects at the filler neck, that is the fuel filler vent that keeps the fuel from spraying back out of the neck while fueling the plane, and it works very well. This of course is in addition to the 1/4" atmospheric vent, which you can see in the photo.
>
> We use the stock Titan fuel clunk inside the tank with the factory two-stage strainer soldered on.
>
> There is no sealer used on the Rans fittings to install them other than blue Loctite to keep the nut secure, but you do use teflon sealant for the 1/8" NPT fittings that screw into them. Be careful to not overtighten them as it will damage the O-rings if the fittings turn in the tank.
>
> We've found the toughest smelly fuel problem in a Tornado is the fitting that the drain sump that the valve screws into. Make sure you use a very good thread sealant on it as well as the aluminum belly skin since the threads in the valve really aren't pipe thread like the brass fitting it screws into. If that leaks, it leaks all the time, until the tank is empty.
>
> --Kimberly
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jrceacampo
> To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, June 28, 2009 8:02 AM
> Subject: [Titanaircraft] Re: Fuel Tank Problem
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Kimberly;
> The Fuel I left seems to work, but still there are some areas that may require something stronger or found I way to scratch what seems to be glued at the bottom.
> Also, Do you use a weight or a mesh at the end of your blue urethane hose inside the tank?
> What do you use to seal back the fittings plus the aluminum base plate at the top of the tank?
> Thank you!
> Rob.
>
> --- In Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Panos" <kimberly@> wrote:
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > We use the blue urethane inside the tank and for the vents. We also use the RANS fuel tank fittings, which are aluminum with a captive surface O-ring, so they can't rot like the rubber inserts that Titan supplies. They are far superior, and are now the only fuel tank fitting we will use on plastic tanks. They require a 1/8"NPT male fitting on each one once installed to connect the hose to.
> >
> > --Kimberly
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jrceacampo
> > To: Titanaircraft@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2009 8:55 PM
> > Subject: [Titanaircraft] Fuel Tank Problem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all;
> >
> > I want to share and also ask about something that happened this evening. As I started checking all my fuel lines, preparing for my first fill up of the fuel tank for engine testing for the 1st time, with difficulty I was able to see some sort of a brown shush or corrosion at the bottom of the Plastic tank, I was suspicious and took the tank out.
> > All lines below for draining the tank, were cracking, full of crap inside (with part of that brown shushy and oily thing I saw at the bottom of the tank. I'm not sure what this is, all the fittings inside the tank are completely corroded (light blueish powder on them!). If I would have gone with the testing or taxiing, my lines would have been all clogged and the engine would have stopped. I'm happy to have done this inspection. I bought this plane 70-75% complete and I've continued with the project. Probably the previous owner left some water there that provoked this corrosion inside.
> >
> > So, is it possible to clean that stuff with a particular product? I currently left some gasoline inside to get that stuff diluted. Im going to change all the fittings. even the fuel probe might not work anymore.
> > Does Titan have all the necessary fittings for this fuel tank in a kit form? I think I'll have to take off the 2 draining fittings at the bottom as well, what compound should I use to seal everything back with new fittings? Do you guys use a urethane hose inside the tank?
> >
> > Your ideas are appreciated! thanks,
> >
> > Rob.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [AMD] Airfix vs Esci F-27's

Wow

Thanks for that information guys! First I want to apologize for not checking into this before posting (I'm new to the group and am still finding my way around).

But, I most certainly appreciate you taking the time to lay it out for me. I didn't realize that the Esci kit was that bad!

Cheers!

John

From: "tratenseka@aol.com" <tratenseka@aol.com>
To: airlinermodelling@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 4:22:52 PM
Subject: Re: [AMD] Airfix vs Esci F-27's

John:

This has been covered extensively elsewhere.? I think someone summed it up brilliantly by asking rhetorically: "what's right about the Esci kit?"? Frankly, it kind of looks like an F-27, but...? Others may chime in.? I built one years ago and still have it on display.

For starters: the Esci fuselage is far too shallow (it's off by probably 3/8"), at least 1/4" too narrow in cross section, and also the incorrect shape in cross section--it should resemble a?circle with a small lobe crease and double-bubble on the underside.? The windscreen is rounded when it should be distinctly V-shaped, with that shape continuing above the transparency. ? On the Esci kit, that area is blunt.? The nose is too narrow and pointy.? The discrepancies in fuselage depth?are easier to take care of with the Airfix kit, which appears to be the correct width.?

The engines are totally wrong.? First, they are too far inboard.? Second, they are both 1/8" too narrow, and do not fair properly into the wing upper surface in a nice parabolic shape that mirrors the airfoil.? The rear fairings are entirely too small and narrow.? When viewed from the side, the entire engine?upper nacelle, fore to aft,?should appear to be one continuous airfoil--the Airfix kit captures this almost exactly.? By contrast, the Esci kit's engines look like sausages, albeit sausages with lots of neat little intakes.

The vertical stabilizer is too narrow as well.

The Airfix kit has its flaws but they are not as onerous to repair.? I would encourage those who are interested to check out the following web page:
http://www.xs4all. nl/~designer/ models/f27/ f27mod.htm

Alex

-----Original Message-----

...

So, my question is; what EXACTLY is so incorrect about the Esci kit?

...

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